Do you find yourself wearing an awful lot of black? And do you find yourself apologizing, if only to yourself, for your choices? Does an all-black outfit, we might ask, reek of defeat? No I say, no! Like anything we do, as long as we reveal our intent, it’s an act of courage.
You just want to make sure you don’t wear black in default. As in, “Oh I have to go out, ugh, gee, do I have some black pants, oh good there they are at the back of the closet, what else, oh heck here’s that black sweater and by god I know those black pumps show their age but no one will notice, OK then I’m ready, oh wait, fine, lipstick. Let’s go.”
Choose black. Even if you do so because you can’t quite get the hang of colors, or you really wish your body weight chose a different distribution across your frame. Make the choice with intent. And my bet is that you’ll develop a reputation for incredible style, and simplify, and have some fun too.
(If it makes you nervous, at all, imagine you’re a fashion insider. Or, even better, our gorgeous Tabitha at Bourbon and Pearls.)
You do have to make some choices in addition to he. The most important? Structure? Or flow?
Here’s an example of all-black structure. A tailored blazer, button front shirt, trousers, bold pumps, and a black scarf to drive home your intent. This is not accidental dressing. To give a structured outfit flair, your jewelry should be wiggly. Term of art, that. Your lipstick, playful.
Alternatively, an unstructured cardigan jacket, layered over a tunic and cropped pants. A little more edge to the shoe, and structured earrings to balance the moving fabric. Makeup focused on the eyes. I highlight eyes or lips, never both.
What you don’t want to do is wear both structured and flowing together unless you are quite confident. Une Femme today, for example. Or Jenna Lyons. She can pair a chambray shirt with harem pants brilliantly, we more intermediate fashion sorts may approach with caution. We do not want to default to stretch-waist French terry pants and a regular ol’ button-front shirt. Or belted, tailored pants and a tunic for that matter – too much fabric at the waist.
You should also work texture in all-black. You want a similar degree of sheen and tightness across all your fabrics. For example, woven silk with cotton jersey, not so hot, but velvet with denim is great.
A final note. In monochrome, our skin becomes an accessory – be strategic in what you reveal. Show the skin you like, and like the skin you show. Check the proportions on visible ankles, wrists, arms, neckline. Small things make big style statements. As you can, if you but choose.
Shopping For The All-Black Outfit
Structure
(Clothing by the Princess of Structure.)
Blazer (J. Crew 55% off at the Outnet)//Shirt (black now sold out but will be back, I’m sure)//Bootcut Jeans//Suede Pumps//Silk-Cashmere Wrap//Earrings//Necklace// NARS Multiples // NARS Lip Velvet Gloss Pencil
Flow
(Guess who dominates this outfit? The Queen of Flow.)
Jacket//Tunic//Pants//Shoes//Earrings//Necklace //Eyeliner 1 (navy) & 2 (french blue)
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59 Responses
When I saw your “Flowing Black” look, I immediately thought of Une Femme…she rocks the flow-y look! I’m a big fan of structured and of “wiggly” jewellry. That should be a new fashion term “wiggly.”
@Sue B @highheelsinthewilderness.blogspot.ca, Make it so:).
I have lived in black-and-denim for wide swathes of time, years. . . black-and-black-and-black not so much, but I agree that commitment and choice can make this look ever so sophisticated and chic.
@Frances/Materfamilias, I have done the same with white and denim. Where would we West Coasters be without our jeans?
Alas, I have come to the realization that black is not flattering to me – it just highlights the lines in my face. I miss the ease of being able to find so many different styles in a single “color.” I envy you the ability to wear it and look so good.
@MJ, Understood. It’s just so much trickier to do monochrome in any other color, and black just, as you say, doesn’t suit some of us.
@MJ, I have a friend who wears an ivory slubbed silk scarf with black, and looks entirely different (and chic) than if the black were right up to her face. Might that work?
In a word, black is perfection.
@Tish Jett, xox.
I like black for “dress up ” but feel the need to soften with soft grey and some white. So, my outfit might be black pants and shoes with grey cashmere and white blouse. Boring, I know but I’ve never claimed to be fashionable. That’s why we have you!
@Mary Anne, Hehe. I think Black/gray/white can be beautifully stylish. Very elegant.
For several years now, I have been trying to have a very small and efficient wardrobe. Black works very well for that. I also wear quite a bit of gray. Also, since I wear some Eileen Fisher basics, black and gray just seemed the way to go. It works well for shoes/boots as well. My aim is to always look appropriate, up to date, but to spend a relatively small amount on clothing. It’s never been a big priority for me. In the summertime, I wear some navy and white as well. Whereas I know some colors are more flattering on me (red, peach, orange) and I have those colors in my closet, I get the best value from my black clothing items.
@Susan, Working on a constrained problem, i.e. few colors, little money, can sometimes yield better results than solving with limitless resources.
Now that my hair is decidedly brown (with gray skunk stripes) I don’t look so good in black. But for many years black was a staple in my closet.
@Linda Pakravan, I’m curious, have you replaced black with any other single shade?
Your first montage is almost exactly me, at least when I still worked in an office. I still use black as a staple, even on weekends, but always with a colorful blouse or scarf (my coloring is not flattered by black). Black served me well for business trips, allowing me to pack light and mix and match.
@Susie, So happy to meet the embodiment of the collage!
Thank you for this (and for the lovely mention). I know it’s not everyone’s thing, but I love black and how I feel wearing it. And you’ve nailed the “how to’s” here, especially about mixing textures. That’s really key to making it look intentional.
@déjà pseu, My pleasure, as always.
I feel so much better about my wardrobe after reading this post and some of the comments. I love black and feel it is classic and timeless.
@Jeanette, Good. That was my hope.
O yes. I find black works well because it gives you a good silhouette. Having chosen glasses with dark frames I always try to wear a little black somewhere in my outfit.
A makeup salesperson advised me to pencil my eyebrows a little darker, which was good advice.
I just love the pendant in the first picture and the jacket and shoes in the second!
darker eyebrows when wearing a dark outfit …
I’m glad someone mentioned eyebrows! Mine are blondish and barely show up. For that reason, I use a blond eyebrow pencil (I know about all the other great products and have tried them) and sometimes get them dyed. I’ve found that if my eyebrows show up, I show up and need very little other makeup. I have never though of the concept of darker eyebrows for a darker outfit. Does that even make sense?
@mademarian, I find as I age that I always want an eyebrow pencil to look “dressed.” And glad you like that pendant – I adamantly refused to make any Shades of Gray references in the post;).
My mother was always trying to push me to wear black. The color was flattering to her, not me. For years, I owned absolutely nothing black. (It’s not in the “spring” color palette.). Then I worked with a colleague from NYC – she wore nothing but black. I now have a few pieces, but prefer navy or charcoal as dark neutrals. In the plus size world, it is somewhat challenging to avoid black – seems to be the default option. When online shopping, I will often set the filters to select for every color except black. That usually decreases the options by 60-70%. I might wear more black, but every time I wear black near my face, I get asked if I’m feeling alright!
@DocP, WEll that’s a smart way to use the technology! ABB! I also love navy, needless to say, and if pressed to wear only one color, that just might be in. It’s almost as chic as black in monochrome, I think, just less urban.
I wear a lot of black – it is somewhat out of laziness and maybe a lack of courage, but, in spite of liking fashion, I’m basically pretty lazy about getting dressed on a day to day basis, so it just sort of works, without too much thought.
@kathy, I wonder if you, as an artist, also like to rest your eyes?
I avoided black for a few years but recently have found myself gravitated to the black options. It is such a classic and easy to accessorize. I use black less for things like belts, bags and shoes – there are so many more interesting options there.
@Jane, I have a feeling that black really may be coming back, sort of like Birkenstocks after all those sky high heels.
@Jane, Yes, I think black is making a comeback but the material must be a very good quality to look refined and elegant. And I agree that navy and grey are wonderful neutrals, too.
Imogen Lamport at Inside Out made a very good observation about black in her blog about the Oscar’s frocks. She clearly demonstrates how black does not suit everybody but that if you insist on wearing it, make sure to soften it with skin or transparency. She also illustrated how navy works pretty much as a dark neutral but because it can be warm or cool, suits many more complexions.
@Melissa O’Neill, Imogen’s blog is the best source I know for the science of color and shape. I’ve never found her equal, anywhere.
In my 30s, while living in NYC I wore a lot of black, but that is almost a requirement in NY. Some years ago I moved north to Montreal and starting adding color into my wardrobe. I still wear lots of darks on the bottom, black, navy, gray but have gone brighter on the top. Also, the cold, and flaky winter skin are not good with black, at all. Gray is my new favorite neutral.
@Jannike, I live in Mtl too. Have you noticed that at least 92% of all women here wear black winter coats? I too wear black on bottom and other neutral or colour on top, just for the lift in our long, dark winters. But I also love to wear all black, especially for evening.
Black is very very popular, just not for me. I much prefer a lively navy or good dark chocolate as a neutral with significant amounts of strong colour. It can be frustrating to swim against the current – most stores carry about 75% or more black clothing. Some carry close to 100%. And when I get on the subway or walk into a crowded space and experience a sea of black…well…
@LauraH, Dark chocolate is a wonderful color.
As a colour consultant I try to avoid black, but only because I know it’s far too heavy for me. Having said that though, I do own a few black items as it is so classy, especially in better made clothes. I do try and wear a bright colour under my chin though. i do love that structured black blazer!
Lorna Mai Blog
@lorna mai, I’ve heard a lot of people advocate that color under the face technique – I suspect it’s really useful if black alone does no favors.
Since my hair is now grey, I am finding the darkest navy, the kind that could be black but isn’t, is kinder to me, but can’t imagine ever giving up black. I also adore black linen in summer.
@Duchesse, Oh gosh yes. Black linen in summer is divine.
I shall never forget the day I discovered black (I’d worn it before of course but you know…): a black mock turtleneck with covered buttons on the back tucked into slightly high wasted and belted wool flannel wide pants – a la Express (1985). I looked in the mirror (I was blonde then also) and said HOLY WOW MS DALEY!!?? I have literally never looked back. I need high powered lighting in my closet to tell the blacks from the blacks and I am ALWAYS happy with the way I am dressed. For me – YAYAYAY BLACK!
@pamela gene daley,
As a young designer growing up in Florida, I rebelled against the “all black” stereotype of art school – but now that I’m turning forty, I’ve discovered that I look great in black! My neutral and low-contrast coloring (another Imogen fan here) jump out against dark neutrals, and restraining my wardrobe to them frees up my creative juices for things I spend my day looking at. And now that I work in computer science, wearing lots of arty black does remind people that I’m good with a layout… :) I am still reminding myself it’s okay to buy yet another black outfit – J.Jill has a lovely spread in the back of their March circular – I want all, including the sandals!
@pamela gene daley, You guys inspire me!
Or all white.
I pack all white gauze for Mexico beach.
@Gayle, Huge hooray for all white.
Black is not my best color, physically or psychologically, although it has taken me some time to fully embrace this. Even all navy, especially of the deeper shades, is too much for me now, and if I dress completely in either color it usually means I am attempting to cover up some level of personal discomfort. However, I cannot imagine completely abandoning either color, and the contrast of deep colors with my pale skin is kinder to me in the summer than whites and very pale shades.
@Mardel, I think I would have felt as you do, 10 years ago. It’s fascinating, how one’s relationship to clothing changes over the years. So much more than fashion or sheer aesthetics. I guess it’s not surprising, but every time I’m reminded of the import, I’m always like, “Huh.”
I’m “flow” when technically, according to “The Rules,” my size 14 body should be all about “structure.” But who the hell made up those rules anyway?!? I love all black because it makes me feel NY Chic, classy, and bad-ass all at the same time. And a little flow lends me a lot of drama at 5’10”!
@Mamavalveeta03, Oh heck no to the rules! I think “flow” and height are fantastic together.
I wear black most of the time because finally, in my 60s, I HAVE the courage–and self-knowledge–to recognize it’s what makes me happiest. When I’m in black, I am at my “most me.” Its edge, its serenity, its lack of distraction from the person inside. Black makes me calm and centered. Luckily, it flatters my Mediterranean complexion and silvering hair, but I’m pretty sure I’d be wearing it even if it didn’t. I’ve loved your post and all the responses.
@Linda, Thank you! I’ve loved these responses so much. I learn from this blog all the time.
I often refer to my closet as a black hole. lol 80% of my clothes are black. I am honestly not sure if living in NYC has anything to do with that. I do like a little accent of red in winter and hermes orange with white in summer but love my black. To me it looks chic and pulled together. I feel most myself in it.
Your color accents sound very chic.
Great post! I made a conscious decision a long time ago to wear black almost exclusively. I love playing with silhouettes, textures and layers and I particularly love to mix structured and unstructured pieces. With a good understanding of proportions, this can be done beautifully.
@Deborah @ Stylish Murmurs, Thank you. And if you can mix the structured and un-, I suspect you’re a really advanced style maven:).
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